By Johnboy Jones
“I just read a peer reviewed article, approved through blind review by the author’s sister, that you can tell the essence of a person’s soul through their last 3 Google searches.
Based on this new knowledge I have acquired, I invite you to share with me your last 3 Google searches, and I will tell you who you really are at your inner core”
This was a post on Facebook from my old college roommate. And ironically, the most popular search around the world is “facebook,” which is even funnier given that you could just as easily type facebook.com into a URL bar. “google” and “youtube” are also popular and likewise amusing.
But this got me thinking – What are people in Bluffton Googling? Is it mundane things like Walmart, Weather and Wordle? Or does Bluffton have a unique Soul?
As a side note, I tried mine finding that I had turned that part of Google off to which I responded to my college roommate “No Soul Found.”
Blufftonian’s Top Google Searches:
“How can I prove bike paths are polluting the May River?”
These folks obviously live in the Alljoy area where they have been fighting the installation of bike paths for over 20 years. (*I recently saw this again as a Facebook discussion – but I remember it from way back ) And it’s good for water-quality that in that part of the river by the Calibogue Sound the tidal flush is so large (salinity kills bacteria) that the amount of pavement and dirty run-off isn’t as much of an issue as it is in the Buckwalter Area – which directs stormwater run-off into the headwaters via Stoney and Rose Dhu creeks.
Immediately after things started being developed on Buckwalter oysters in the headwaters became inedible. The people in Alljoy know this as most of them are “been heres” who just want to be left alone – and who could blame them? Certainly not me … but, I am also a bicycle interloper who rides everywhere there is no gate – which gets me the occasional dirty look despite the fact that over the past 35 years I have replaced 50% of my blood with cooking oil and grits. I guess the Alljoy folks will have to explain the real reason they don’t want bike paths.
The next most popular search is:
“Restaurants near me” — This doesn’t make us unique until you look into the nature of local eats. When my daughter was little Nickle Pumpers was about the only thing in Bluffton. There was also the old Piggly Wiggly but not much else. We used to take Sunday Afternoon trips to the Savannah Mall and then go out to eat. Nowadays, we have a ton of options – which is awesome. I sometimes call this era of Bluffton’s History – “Bluffton’s Schmaltyz Renaissance.” Things are pretty good right now – especially restaurants – but at the same time a way of life is definitely being lost. There just aren’t that many places that have grown as fast as Bluffton and it’s a shock to the culture – and I think we all know what the traffic is going to look like here in 5 years.
I remember volunteering with the Rotary Club at Mayfest making french fries in their food truck and seeing that the woman from Eggcentricity had a urinal strapped to the electrical pole on the corner … and the laminated 8.5″ x 11″ message in the urinal in bright blue and green lettering was “Yankee Drinking Fountain.” — And I had been here long enough to know that the proper response to something like this is “Bless your heart” although I like the NY version better. But it just goes to show, that even on the day Blufftonians should be rolling out the red carpet – there’s some bitterness there – even if they really aren’t sure why.
Which brings us to the all-revealing third in the series of top 3 Google searches that make up Bluffton’s soul … “What is a Blufftonian?”
The existential search for Bluffton’s soul continues – and will continue as long as our growth is exponential. We get new neighbors everyday, and I for one welcome them. Where I came from the weather sucked, but the schools were great and the graduation rate was 93%. The taxes were high, but you got something for your money. The Public Works Department did an awesome job and there was very little crime. The Police Department didn’t seem like it was in a constant state of limbo like it does here. There were tons of parks and community pools and it was safe to ride your bike on the street. I guess Bluffton’s soul is now part Yankee. I don’t care if taxes go up as long as I finally get something substantial for my money.
And I think, like everywhere the soul of a place is found in the collective goodness of the community. That’s a little bit hard to find here sometimes but there are tons of great folks doing what they can to make Bluffton just a little bit better. And I for one, hope they succeed more in the future than they did in the past.
The science is easy to understand and long-proven.
“The clearing of land for sprawling suburban development is directly linked to the impaired waterways because without enough natural land cover left intact to serve its filtering function, stormwater carries sediment and pollutants across impervious surfaces and directly into the rivers.” (Schueller & Holland, 2000).
“With a few exceptions, the settlement pattern south of the Broad River has been comprised of conventional suburban sprawl: single-use, single-family detached subdivisions, strip-commercial, and auto-dominated thoroughfares which brings with it a high percentage of impervious surface.” (Schueller & Holland, 2000).
“If the greater Bluffton area is developed according to the approvals as they currently exist, impervious surface will exceed 20% in the May River watershed and edible May River oysters will be a thing of the past.” (Coastal Conservation League)
We are already over 10% and we add to the problem nearly every day. We can continue to grow, but we must conform to the simple science above.
“Over the past (two) decade(s), various stormwater management techniques have been employed in an attempt to mitigate the impacts of stormwater runoff caused by impervious surface without altering the conventional suburban settlement pattern. These techniques include, but are not limited to: stormwater management ordinances, Best Management Practices, devices at the end of outfalls, and maintenance and repair of stormwater retention ponds. However, the current inventory of on-site safeguards does not allow us to ignore the ten-percent rule. The only aquatic systems that will retain the full range of species and ecological functions will be those where less than ten percent of the watershed is impervious.” (Schueller & Holland, 2000)
In the beginning there was Sun City Hilton Head (located nowhere near Hilton Head Island). Sun City made of a lot of people very angry and was largely considered a bad idea. And in the later parts of the 1900’s Beaufort County had a lot of ideas – most of them bad. (sans the comp plan that the Town of Bluffton decimated, but that’s a story for another day).
And in that moment, where the Town of Bluffton made its revenue by way of an illegal speed-trap and kickbacks thereof from said “speeding tickets that never happened”, we devised a plan – a plan of men … and mice … and manifest destiny. Bluffton’s brain-trust called to action a new committee – the Development Agreement Negotiating Committee or DANC for short. This great new committee entrusted within itself the ability to negotiate agreements with developers as it tried to control the destiny of greater Bluffton. With these new magical powers and the spin-doctoring marketing-genius of folks who made pottery and punch cards they negotiated – and won a few, but mostly lost. The odds were not in their favor.
Bluffton’s best came to meetings with developers with reams of paper and plans – and models even. Developers sent guys who showed up with a pen – as the guys needed to entertain themselves twirling said pen (#TrueStory) as they pushed over the bumpkins not paying for things like roads and schools.
(*sidenote – paying for schools was the responsibility of the county so it didn’t seem to bother Bluffton folks too much that we didn’t plan well for the schools we would need, and Beaufort County repaid the favor by building developments in the intended pathways of major thoroughfares – so we are still working thru those issues. (someday we’ll tell you the story of the crooked parkway – but we digress)
Back then South Carolina was on the very wrong end of many lists – income, maternal health, diabetes, education and so on – and since then we have moved up most of those lists at least a spot or 3. Hey, it’s South Carolina – Thank God for Mississippi.
Bluffton’s prospects were extremely bright – we just didn’t kinda get it as we set out to make … jobs – and to make sure the efffed up county didn’t efff things up before we could eff things up.
We swore we did it to save the May River – so that was one of the first things to go to fecal coli form.
And as we went we annexed everything we could, and it looked for a minute like our manifest destiny might take us all the way to the Broad River … but, alas, May River Pollution turned public opinion against us – so we got stopped. Nothing like a good annexation – oh well.
We knew full well that commercial was profitable (Annex the Kroegar, Annex the Kroegar – that’s magic), rich neighborhoods weren’t too bad (let’s point the crooked parkway right at Hampton Hall) and crap-box cookie-cutter neighborhoods on 1/4 acre lots lost money – so we built lots of those. But, nice people live there – so all good. Welcome to Bluffton my good neghibors.
Today, Bluffton is all that it can be as we make ready to become like Nassau County Long Island – Home of lots of little overpriced house, some nice homes, beautiful nature kinda-destroyed and the impending all-encompassing crippling fear that sometime today I may have to take a left turn where there is no streetlight.
It could be worse.
As citizens of Bluffton, South Carolina we hold the following to be true:
That we bear responsibility for the stewardship of nature’s blessings entrusted to us in Bluffton and along the May River;
That freedom and civic duty work hand-in-hand to create a culture of individuality and a sense of community;
That our natural, physical and cultural history is worthy of our protection as trustees in order for us to embrace our future;
Acknowledging these truths, we aspire to the following goals:
To build upon our historic foundation a future that celebrates diversity, nurtures neighborliness and ensures a future of opportunity for generations to come;
To enhance the natural beauty and the quality of the May River and its watershed;
To protect the architectural heritage of Old Town Bluffton;
To enhance the canopy of trees and natural landscape throughout Bluffton;
To engage the creative human spirit and the arts within Bluffton;
To protect and enhance the oyster, shrimping and fishing opportunities of the May River;
To provide housing opportunities for all citizens that are decent, affordable, and Bluffton beautiful;
To nurture respect for each citizen.
Oyster shuckers from South Carolina in 1912. Josie (6 years old), Bertha (6 years old) and Sophie (10 years old) would start work at 4am at the Maggioni Canning Co.
The Old Town Dispensary is an indoor/outdoor restaurant on Calhoun Street. Known for great live music and a solid menu, the Old Town Dispensary was originated by Matt Jording who also owns the Sage Room on Hilton Head Island. I will tell you in advance, we like this place and recommend the grouper.
rud·der·less (rŭd′ər-lĭs) – adj. 1. Lacking in direction, control, or coherence
While walking around the Old Town area, we thought we might want to get something to eat. It was nearly 9pm on a Friday night and we wanted to make sure our intended destination was serving. We called from 4 or 5 blocks away and they confirmed they served until 10 on weekends. Upon arriving we saw a few tables outside that were empty. We approached the Hostess Stand and inquired. She said those tables were reserved and there was a 15 minute wait for outside seating. We asked if there was a wait for inside, and she said there was not. So we went inside and went to the table we had we had suggested was suitable for us to eat. The hostess took no action. We sat and waited for about 10 minutes. Then I got up and waited in line at the bar. They were quite busy and one of the servers nearly ran me over as I guess I was blocking her lane. Good hip check lady – I guess we aren’t much for hockey in the south – who knew dining was a reasonable alternative?
I waited my turn and spoke to one of the bartenders. I was ready to order as we knew we wanted – Mic Ultra for her, dark beer on tap for me and the grouper. The bartender did get our beverages and asked if we wanted a server. I said that was fine. I returned to the table, and the bartender dropped off our drinks. Then we waited … and waited …and waited. I did see the bartender go into the backroom (private server area) and I assume he told someone we were here. It’s hard to tell if there was a manager as it was kind of a free for all. My wife was a career server with 25 years of experience on Hilton Head and I worked on both sides of the house managing kitchens and servers for 15 years before opening my own (not restaurant) business. We knew what we were looking at, and it was chaos.
After about 25 more minutes, we had about finished our drinks and concluded, we would not be served food in a timely manner. We laughed at the crazy scene and decided to leave. We knew we wouldn’t be missed. I again fought my way to the bar to pay and answered 5 or 6 questions for a different bartender so she could figure out how to check us out. We were clearly flying under the radar.
Some version of the band Cornbred was playing and they are always good, so we hung around outside for a short while catching a few tunes, finishing our beverages. We noticed the table we had initially inquired about was still empty, so we went and sat down. 5 minutes later the Hostess approached us and asked if we were going to eat? I briefly explained to her our experience the past 35 minutes and she started to explain to us about the restrictions of that table before deciding walking away without completing that thought was for the best. We also wondered off into the darkness shortly thereafter and laughed durning our walk home knowing that we could have easily left without paying – who would have remembered us – clearly no one. We did leave a 20% tip as all good F & B people do – despite receiving literally no service. The irony was not lost on us.
Will we go back – sure! Why not. It’s a good place. Although we may skip Friday night searches for food. I guess it’s like everything in Bluffton – the demand is huge and the quality is hit and miss. It’s a “Habitat for Amenities” as one of my good friends used to joke, along with “It could be worse.”
By: Center for Heirs’ Property Preservation
President Joe Biden signed the Inflation Reduction Act into law on Tuesday afternoon. The Inflation Reduction Act will incentivize unprecedented shifts toward renewable energy, electric vehicles, and curbing methane emissions from fossil fuel production. The historic bill also includes billions for sustainable agriculture and includes a provision that provides debt relief to underserved landowners including farmers, ranchers, and forest landowners.
“A critical component of this landmark bill is that it includes appropriations of $250 million to provide grants and loans to improve land access including heirs’ property and fractionated land issues,” said Dr. Jennie L. Stephens, Chief Executive Officer for the Center for Heirs’ Property Preservation. “We thank Congress for including these important investments for underserved farmers, foresters, and landowners. The funding in this bill will hopefully allow us to increase the number of South Carolina families we are able to help not only in keeping their land, but in creating wealth for future generations.”
Heirs’ property is a significant issue in South Carolina and refers to land that has been passed from one generation to the next without a will so that the land is owned “in common” by multiple heirs. Heirs’ property is the leading cause of Black land loss in the country.
Earlier this year, the United States Department of Agriculture announced members of their newly established Equity Commission and its Subcommittee on Agriculture, of which, Dr. Jennie L. Stephens was appointed.
“The members of the Agriculture Subcommittee, of which I serve, have been discussing this historic bill and we have been ecstatic about the programs that will benefit historically underserved landowners,” Stephens said. “Regarding the land access assistance, I’m very pleased that heirs’ property families can now benefit from grants received by nonprofit organizations to resolve title issues. Our hope is that The Inflation Reduction Act marks a major turning point in the long struggle to provide Black farmers with not only loan relief and restructuring for farmers in financial distress, but also compensation for those who can prove they were subject to USDA discrimination in the past.”
The Center for Heirs’ Property Preservation™ has been protecting heirs’ property through legal education and direct legal services since 2005. In 2013, the Center began promoting the sustainable use of land through forestry education and services to provide increased economic benefit to low-wealth family landowners. The Center provides legal and forestry services in Allendale, Bamberg, Beaufort, Berkeley, Calhoun, Charleston, Clarendon, Colleton, Darlington, Dillion, Dorchester, Florence, Georgetown, Hampton, Horry, Jasper, Lee, Marion, Marlboro, Orangeburg, Sumter and Williamsburg counties.
To date, the Center has provided 3,569 persons with free, one-hour “Advice and Counsel” (A&C) with 955 clients receiving direct legal services to clear title. A total of 1,418 simple wills have been drafted at free, community Wills Clinics; more than 503 families (who collectively own more than 40,000 acres) have benefited from various levels of education and expert resources to develop and implement sustainable forestry management plans and 301 titles have been cleared on family land with a total tax-assessed value of $18.3 million.
Bluffton Police Chief Stephenie Price has resigned, after less than two years as chief. When Price was hired in 2020 she was the department’s fourth chief in three years.
Price replaced Christopher Chapmond, who surprised the town by leaving after less than two years in Bluffton.
Chapmond had taken over for Joseph Manning in 2018, who spent nine months as chief.
Before that, short-timer Joey Reynolds, left the job amid controversy over hefty overtime payments and bad behavior by officers.
It seems that the Town of Bluffton has issues managing a Police Department and most chiefs last less than 2 years.
It looked like Price was on the right track at first. We guess, only the really really bad chiefs last longer than two years in Bluffton.
A Brief History of Bluffton
by W. Hunter Saussy
To understand the history of Bluffton it is necessary to have some knowledge of its geographic location and the history of adjacent areas such as Hilton Head, St. Helena, Port Royal and other barrier islands for the people who first settled Bluffton were of the same families that earlier developed those places.
While Port Royal St. Helena and Hilton Head were first explored by the Spanish in 1520, the French in 1562 and finally colonized by the English in 1670, the lower parts of what is now Beaufort County, which includes the Bluffton area, were considered “Indian Lands”. This situation existed until after the Yemassee Indian War which began in 1715. After a long, sporadic and bloody struggle the Yemassees and their Indian allies were finally defeated in 1728 and removed from the area; with the majority of the surviving Yemassees going to what is now south Georgia and Florida where they were absorbed into the Seminole tribe.
After the removal of the Yemassees the area was opened for settlement by white colonists. Purrysburg on the South Carolina side of the Savannah River, was settled by Swiss colonists in 1732 and Savannah was settled in 1733 by the English under General Oglethorpe.
Before these settlements were formed, the Lord Proprietors who controlled the Carolinas under a charter from King Charles II, granted themselves in 1718 additional baronies of approximately 13,000 acres each in these formerly “Indian Lands”. The Devil’s Elbow Barony, which covered an area between the Colleton and Okatie Rivers on the north, the May River on the south, Mackey’s Creek on the east, and a line drawn from Linden plantation on the May River to and including Rose Hill plantation on the May River to and including Rose Hill plantation on the Okeetee River, was drawn by lot Sir John Colleton and deeded to him on December 5, 1718.
The original Sir John did very little with this barony as he had other and more developed baronies in other parts of the Carolinas including his main barony, Fairlawn, in what became Berkeley County near Charleston. Finally his grandson, a so a Sir John Colleton, did develop some plantations in the Victoria Bluff – Foot Point areas. These plantations were destroyed by the British under General Provost in 1779 during the American Revolution.
This Sir John Colleton died in 1776, but prior to his death he divided the western half of Devil’s Elbow Barony into six tracts and sold them. A tract of 680 acres, which included the present town of Bluffton, went to Benjamin Walls.
Following the Revolutionary War, and with the invention of the cotton gin at Mulberry Grove plantation on the Savannah River, cotton, and particularly the long-staple cotton grown on the sea islands, became the chief money crop of the island plantations; and, together with rice grown an the mainland plantations bordering the fresh water rivers; the Savannah and New Rivers, brought great prosperity. Summers on a plantation and especially on a rice plantation were not the most healthful. The intense heat and the hoards of malaria and yellow fever carrying mosquitoes brought illness and death, primarily to the white population of the plantations. It was for this reason that the wealthy planters began to look for a healthier place to keep their families. And the area we now call the town of Bluffton was the ideal choice. With its high bluff and huge spreading live oak trees and facing directly into the prevailing cool, southeast summer breezes, the area had the healthful climate thy south. It was also easily accessible by water to their working plantations on the islands and on the mainland.
So began the real history of Bluffton. The first summer homes were built here in the early 1800s. There is evidence of the Pope and the Kirk families being here shortly after 1800. Unfortunately information on the period between the American Revolution and up to 1860 is very scanty. All of the Beaufort County Court House records of the period were destroyed by General William Tecumseh Sherman’s cavalry in 1865 while being moved from the Court House in Gillisonville to Columbia for safekeeping. Our main source of information of the antebellum period comes from old family letters, a few memories written by persons who visited the area, some church records, wills and some articles in the Savannah and Charleston news papers of that time.
We do know that the healthy climate and beauty of the area began to draw more and more planters here, not only to summer but for year round residency. Sometime during the 1830s the town was formally laid out under a street plan that still exists today.
In the period between the 1830s and the 1860s Bluffton continued to grow. It was first know as “May River”, then later as “Kirk’s Bluff’. In the early 1840s a mass meeting was called under the leadership of R. Barnwell Rhett to have the village change its name to Bluffton for the high banks on which it stands and as a compromise between the Kirk and Pope families, each of which wanted the town named for them. The first reference to “Bluffton” appeared in an advertisement in the Savannah paper of July 1843: `of boat service to Bluffton’.
Two large churches, one Episcopal and one Methodist, were built and a private school was started by Prof. Hugh F Train, a Scotsman brought over to tutor the children of the wealthy planters. The poet Henry Timrod also taught in this private school. Several stores started on Calhoun Street and a Masonic Lodge was organized.
Despite its peacefulness and beauty, Bluffton was also a boiling political center during the unsettled years before the War Between the States. The first secession movement in South Carolina is said to have started in Bluffton in 1844.
Bluffton as a town was finally incorporated in 1852.
All of this affluence came to a grinding halt with the outbreak of the War between the States and the capture of Hilton Head Island by Federal forces on November 17, 1861. Most of the white population fled temporarily to Bluffton due to the Federal troops and gun boats, the entire population of Bluffton was soon evacuated to safer havens in the interior, such as Grahamville, Gillisonville, Allendale, etc. Bluffton became a deserted place with homes, furniture and belongings all abandoned.
During 1862 Federal troops and gun boats visited Bluffton on three occasions, but other than removing furnishings from the deserted houses which they used to furnish their quarters at Fort Pulaski the town was not damaged.
During this period the town was used by Confederate forces a headquarters from which pickets, or lookouts, were distributed at various points along Calibogue Sound and the May River. These pickets were to report any movements by the Federals up the May River to the Confederate cavalry stationed at Pritchardville, about eight miles west of Bluffton.
Early in June of 1863 General David Hunter, the commander at Hilton Head, ordered Colonel Barton, the commander at Fort Pulaski, to take his troops and destroy the town of Bluffton. Without going into detail as to the military operation involved, as this is another full story in itself, the town was set on fire and apparently two-thirds of the houses, including most of the better ones along the bluff, were destroyed on June 4, 1863. The two churches and approximately fifteen of the residences in the center of the town escaped destruction. Of these, two churches and eight of the houses remain today.
After the war, with their homes burned, their Hilton Head plantations confiscated by the Federal Government, and their rice plantations along the New and Savannah Rivers in ruin, many were bankrupt by the war and their Bluffton properties were sold for taxes.
Some families did return however and these together with new people who moved in from other parts of the state, primarily from Hampton, Colleton and Beaufort counties and a few from the North, began to rebuild Bluffton. This time the people were mainly merchants, not planters, and in time Bluffton became the commercial center for this part of Beaufort County with an economy tied very closely to the May River and forest products. Bluffton also continued to draw many summer visitors to their homes along the bluff. By the early 1900s Bluffton boasted seven or eight large general stores along Calhoun Street carrying everything the people needed to sustain themselves, from hardware and dry goods to molasses and groceries. Practically everything that came into and left Bluffton did so by river boats which maintained regular passenger and freight services between Savannah and Bluffton with stops at Daufuskie, Spanish Wells, and Palmetto Bluff then known as “Halsey’s”. Bluffton was once again a prosperous, peaceful and healthy place in which to live or vacation.
This second phase of Bluffton’s history came to a close following the building of the Coastal Highway, (US 17), and the bridging of the Savannah River at Port Wentworth in 1926. People living in the area could now drive to Savannah for their shopping; freight now arrived and left by trucks; and the river boats which were such a vital and picturesque part of Bluffton’s past disappeared from the scene. Bluffton as a trading center began to decline.
Bluffton, as in the past, continued to draw summer residents who treasured the cool breezes and general beauty of May River estuary. However it was the development of Hilton Head Island and the bridging of Mackey and Skull Creeks in the 1950s and the building of the Talmadge Bridge and the short route to Savannah which brought prosperity back to the area.
Today people say, “Bluffton is a way of life” or, “Bluffton is a state of mind”. In either case, Bluffton with its historic past, its beautiful bluff and river estuary, its healthy climate, and its quiet peaceful atmosphere, continues to charm everyone who will take the opportunity to visit it.
* Based on a talk given by W. Hunter Saussy Founder and President Emeritus, at the first general membership meeting of the Bluffton Historical Preservation Society, 31 January 1982.